Disclaimer: I was given this fabric in return for a review over on Minerva. This is a basic post, so please check out my blog post over on Minerva!
What is happening? After three years of not completing make nine and a year off, I am powering through this years make nines.
Could it be I’ve managed to get confidence with my sewing skills – who knows, but I like it.
So, the Pona Jacket by Helen’s Closet Patterns kinda reminds me of similar RTW jackets that I’ve had in the past and will be a to go to pattern for the future.
I really enjoyed making the Pona Jacket. Helen’s instructions are second to none one of the best instructions around. I used the lining hack on her blog post on her website to insert the lining to this jacket.
Oh Bakerloo … ha ha (yes easily changed from ABBAs classic “Waterloo” Song.
As part of the new inclusive sizing (18-28), I was part of the tester team for Nina Lee’s newest pattern, the Bakerloo Blouse and Dress.
With it’s Statement collar with a frill and big voluminous sleeves, what more could you want?
You can either go for the blouse or you can add a skirt.
For the tester version I made the dress, yes … I am a sucker for a gathered skirt!
Before we get into the details. I want to say thank you to Nina who, after I reached out when the 6-20 range was released to say I was slightly disappointed to not seeing both of the size ranges being released at the same time, asked me to be a tester. So Thank You Nina!
Ok details … I’m sure you want them, yes?
Right. The instructions are pretty much really detailed. Lots of illustrations and descriptions with step by step details on how to get the statement collar and fabulous frill perfect.
Size wise, I went with a 22 with the bust and then graded out at the waist to a 28 but could probably go down a size as it is quite roomy. The skirt is a size 28. My measurements are: Bust 46, Waist 46 and hips 57/58.
For my fabric, I chose a tencel twill from The Fabric Room, which I’ve had in my stash for a good while now. I think I heard about The Fabric Room’s Tencel Twill via my good friends in Sew Scottish. Minimum order is 3 metres and the colours are limited but it’s worth a look as it’s £4.50 a metre!!!
Also, worth noting if you have a plain fabric you can really play around with the cross grain of the woven. For my size, it quoted 3.10metres but I managed to use 2.6metres out of the 3m of tencel, which is pretty good I’d say.
Maybe tencel twill wasn’t the best fabric choice as I think the collar pulls the neck down a little because once you’ve got the interfacing in the collar and added the frills, it’s quite a substantial weight. But it won’t stop me from wearing it – oh no!
Will I make this again?
Yes, but I’ll make the Blouse version with longer sleeves. I might raise the darts at the bust on any future versions. And when I do the dress I’ll shorten the bodice. I think that’s all. But yeah, I’ll make it again 😄
So I’ve added a few labels …
1) “One of a Kind” by Stitch Collective on the Frill.
2) Worth the Effort by Kylie and the Machine at the back closure.
3) “Handmade” by This is for Makers on the inside at the back
I think the most favourite thing about this make is the sleeves! It’s so simple, the elastic cuff but punches a statement as does the collar and the frills. Overall it’s a great dress, It delivers and it’s very now but I’m sure I’ll wear it to lots of occasions in the future.
I think I overlooked it as I didn’t realise it was within my sizes, particularly my hips but I was so so wrong!
So I’m hoping there’s a few of you who would like the juicy bits of how I found this pattern, Yes?
The Adrianna Dress by Friday Pattern Company is kinda like the woven sister of The Adrienne Blouse, whom is a jersey pattern. Adrianna comes in sizes XS-4X. The top sizes are: Bust: 54”/137cm, Waist: 47”/119cm and Hips: 57”/145cm.
This is my second Make Nine 2021 that I’ve completed before the end of January, which in itself a complete and utter shock to myself and probably a few of you as previous years I’ve just fallen by the road side!
On top of the Adrianna Dress being part of the make nine challenge, I also completed it for my birthday and as part of the lovely @SisterMintaka’s #FeelingSewMuchBetter annual challenge. It was really fun to photograph and document my progress through the week on Instagram.
Ok, the instructions were flawless – really easy to follow. There was one area where it wasn’t so clear and I was scouting the web for a sewalong and could find one (or any)! that would just glide me through that part. BUT I figured it out. Yay!!
Oh, now the area I was stuck on was step 11. But once it came relevant, it was plain sailing.
Top Tip: Because I was working with a viscose crepe I overlocked all of the edges and used a microtex needle on the sewing machine to sew it together.
I love how the fabric behaves with the elastic in cased at the shoulders and the cuffs. It’s simple to do but the drama it gives is just lush! Chelsea is a genius.
There’s one thing I really shouldn’t have overlooked though. In the instructions booklet on page 5 is a but/hip adjustment guide. Now I usually just grade from my bust-waist-hip but I think I should’ve just went and did this adjustment as I wouldn’t have got this excess (see photo below).
But apart from that, I really enjoyed reading the instructions and sewing this pattern up. On top of that the Viscose Crepe was a dream to work with, yes I’m surprised as it’s Atelier Brunette and sometimes (I have heard of mixed reviews!) notoriously difficult to work with. But it sewed up like a dream!
You can bet on your cotton socks that I will be sewing more Adrianna Dresses in the future. But I’ll be adding a little more length on future Adriannas’ as I’m a little scared I’ll reveal too much if I bend over!
For This Adrianna Dress – I used Atelier Brunette Viscose Crepe “Dune Smokey”, purchased from @ohsewshop with a voucher that I won a while ago. It was a decent remnant and I was completely impressed with myself that I got all the pattern pieces cut out of 2.40cm when the pattern call for between 2.88 and 3.88!
Although I didn’t have to pattern match, I managed to wow myself … and on top of that used the crossed grain to fit all the pieces in. This was really down to the print not being directional and I think I got away with it by the skin of my teeth!!
The Pattern for Adrianna can be found here. I mean, what are you waiting for? Yes, I am a enabler but come on!!
I used #SizeMe label from Stitch Collective, if you are in the Uk and don’t want to wait ages due to the pandemic postage delays then you can buy some of stitch collectives labels at a brilliant online shop run by the lovely Amy, which is Craft and Thrift.
But I just don’t use one label … I mean come on, I am a label fanatic! The #HelloGeorgeous label, I think just finished the insides nicely … don’t you? This is a Kylie and the Machine label, which are stocked in quite a few places now (worldwide) – yes I’ve had them shipped from KATM HQ a couple of times too and it didn’t cost that much extra to be sent over. But that was pre-Brexit and pre-Covid!
Oh! That necklace was a generous gift to myself. I saw it on wolf and moon’s Instagram and was like instantly magpied – it’s such a statement piece and yet flawlessly goes with the Adrianna perfectly! I’ve got a few me mades planned and the fabric will match this beauty very nicely.
Ever since I did my tester on Friday Pattern Company‘s Sagebrush Top, I’ve been hooked!
Hooked in the sense that recently I did a batch cut and I’ve already sewn one of the up – yes already I’m churning Sagebrush Tops out!
I really love this pattern and the details of it. From the frill at the front to the gathering at the sleeves it just makes me happy.
This Sagebrush is slightly different to the others and I’ll explain why, in a moment.
You see it lies with the fabric choice. Previously I’ve went with a viscoses and a viscose-linen blend but I decided to take inspiration from the lovely Jen (@jenlegg_teescreatives) (I’ve met her in real life, as she came up to Edinburgh Frocktails, October 2019 and she is really lovely) who has already sewn the Sagebrush in the very same fabric.
The fabric is a Lady McElroy Chantilly Single Ladies Cotton Lawn from Sister Mintaka which I bought a wee while ago after seeing Jen’s version and looks like there is some in stock. It’s a lovely quality and has sewn up a treat. I love the colours of the print, it will be so diverse! I’ve already thought of a few outfits featuring this top, including pairing it with Jeans, as shown in the photos.
And apparently I’m not the only one who was inspired by Jen, Louisa was too!
Ok, my top was going so well until I decided to use my overlocker to finish the seams on the sleeve and front and back pieces …
At that point of seeing the blade chop into the shoulder what like watching a horror movie. Urgh. I had to step away. It didn’t stop me from sharing my disaster on Instagram stories that night – but it also helped me come up with a plan to save this make.
I had two options, one seeing if I had enough fabric to cut out a new sleeve altogether but I couldn’t really justify using it as I was going to try and make a scrunchie and hair band plus other things from it. The other option was two interface the wrong side and the right side and hope that I wouldn’t need to do a patch work … my needlework is erm shockingly bad 😂
So once I got that bit out the way I could move on and get it finished – yes that’s what we like – a happy ending!
On this Sagebrush I took a bit off the length off and made the hem deep And I actually really like it. So I think I’ll do the next couple this new length.
As you can see, using the cotton lawn gives the frill real structure and the sleeves extra va va voom! I do really like the effect that this cotton lawn has on the pattern.
Well, that’s the 4th Sagebrush of many more to come … I’m excited to do more!
Well this is a first! I’ve made one of my first Make Nine projects and that is the Closet Core Cielo Top within a week of publishing my #makenine2021 plans!
I went with option B and used fabric that I bought from Sister Mintaka.
The fabric is Viscose Twill and is a wonderful medium-light weight and features illustrations of famous mid century architecture. It’s now (no surprise!) Sold out. It does come in a white version aswell but I think it’s all gone unfortunately!
It’s lovely to work with and it really suits the Cielo Top.
The Cielo top is part of the Rome Collection from Closet Core Patterns. The Pietra Trousers and the Fiore Skirt also are part of this collection.
Closet Core patterns now have a bigger size and it comes in two size brackets, 0-20 and 14-30. It’s more inclusive size wise.
The Cielo is the second pattern I’ve tried from the new size range and again I’m really happy with the results. I recently did Elodie Wrap Dress which was the first. I’m hoping to try the new Kalle Shirt which was re-released in 14-30 size, earlier in 2020.
Closet Core patterns have great instructions and it was quite easy to follow them.
I love the fit on this top. I graded from a 22 bust to a 28 hip. I used the size 22 sleeve. This top really suits this twill.
I’m already thinking of trying version A and C once I’ve got a few other make nine projects under my belt.
So yes, I’m super happy with the result and looking forward to matching some of my fabrics from the stash with future Cielos!
Thank you for reading, happy sewing and Stay Safe xx
Well here we are and I’m off to a flying start as I’ve almost finished one off my make nine grid!
This going alongside a YouTube video where you can see me chatting about my make nine 2021 plans. It’s kinda like the show notes from The Love Sewing podcast if you’ve ever read them – I find them really interesting!
Ok … so here’s my #MakeNine2021 / the image below is linked to my Instagram Post! The individual graphics are linked to the pdf patterns corresponding to to pattern house shop just in case you would like to buy it. (I get squad all for this but they are lovely independent pattern brands that I love)!
I’m taking part in the Sheffield Sewcial “Jeans January” over on Instagram. I’m hoping to cut them out ASAP and hoping that they fit well. I go for this style in jeans in Rtw/ Shop bought.
I’ve got some stretch denim but haven’t yet made up my mind which one to choose, that’s the trouble with hoarding fabrics 😂
I’m not sure on the finished garment measurements though …
I’ll be grading waist size 28 and hip size 30.
Ok next up is …
I’ve got at least three fabrics set aside for this and I can’t tell you how often I’ve hesitated about Zadie.
I’m absolutely going to toile it. One reason being it’s generously sized or so I’ve heard. So I think I should just be cautious and do a mock up before I cut into precious fabrics.
However, I will probably going to have to grade between a 20/22 bodice and 26/28 trousers, which is the usual for me.
Back to Megan Neilson and this time we have The Darling Ranges Dress.
Without a doubt I was really in love with this style/pattern before it had the upgrade to the curve range but I patiently waited and now it’s here I have no excuses not to make it.
Although I have heard some grumblings about the bodice fit … I’ll need to look into this as I’m not sure what the details are regarding the grumbling! Have you tried the new Darling Ranges dress, did you have fit issues?
I’ve not yet decided on what fabric for this project, but no doubt I’ll let you know when I do find something from my stash that I’ll go – “that’s the one”!
Next up is the beautiful Pona Jacket from Helen’s Closet.
Now … I must I have AT LEAST 5 fabrics now set aside for this project. I think I just love this jacket because it’s so versatile. I’m really drawn to the short version but I think I’ll do at least a couple of longer versions in the future. I’ll probably do a batch cut & sew just to get them sewn up so I can wear them!
I might have to grade from a 22 to 28 but I’ll assess that when I come to looking at the pattern pieces and measurements.
To start I’ll be trying up a wool from Minerva as part of the blogger network. It’s black so it’ll probably go with a lot of other things in my wardrobe, both me-made and RTW.
Another jacket which I’ve been eyeing up is the Sapporo from PaperCut Patterns.
It’s funny how a lot of people raved about it and “had no problems” making this jacket up and it took one person to really point out the flaws that so many didn’t to get a update on the pattern pieces and a bigger size range.
Like the Pona Jacket and you shouldn’t be surprised – I have been collecting a few fabrics for the Sapporo.
I think I’ll be doing videos on my makes as we go this year, plus I’ll pop into posts on here with photos of the fabrics. That way, you can see the movement and colour – how’s that?
Now the Cielo Top from Closet Core Patterns.
I’m baffled this is my only top in my make nine but it won’t be the only one I make this year. I’ve already batch cut a little pile of Friday Pattern Company’s Sagebrush Top, my tnt pattern of the moment!
To my amazement I’m almost finished the first cielo top and I’ll probably be starting a second very soon.
For my first version I choose to go all out and went for option B / see the big gathered sleeves always draw me, I like a little drama in my clothes.
I think the second version I’ll let the fabric do the talking and just go for version A as pictured. Yes, I’ve got rifle paper co fabric set aside … and it’s so dreamy! But I’ll not spoil the surprise 😉
The sizing is good. Like the Elodie I’m really happy with the fit. I think this is going to one top pattern that I’ll come back to again and again!
Ok – I don’t think it would be right if I didn’t squeeze in a Friday Pattern Company pattern into this make nine, so I’ve chosen the Adrianna Dress.
Unlike its sister (Adrienne Blouse), the Adrianna is designed for Wovens in mind. I’ve completely overlooked this pattern as I didn’t realise that it went up to 4X until recently!
Sooooo … I’ve decided on some fabric for the Adrianna BUT I’ll need to lay it out with the pattern pieces in the next coming week or two as I’m hoping to cut this out and have this as a birthday dress. My birthday is the 17th of January… just in case you need to know 😂
The fabric is an Atelier Brunette Viscose which I’m hoping I’ve got enough to squeeze this dress out off. I might have to lessen the bulk and length in the sleeves to do this.
Ending on two trousers and first up is the Flint Trousers by Megan Neilson Patterns.
I’ve heard so many good things about the Flints, so again I’m eager to go through my Stash and see what would be a good choice to start off with for this pattern.
I’m also liking this pattern because it could be a good staple for work – when I finally get another one. TBH, At the moment the job searching isn’t strong but I think come mid January I’ll have a wee look!
Anyway back to the flints. I like the detail and the fact they now come in the curve range is 🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
And the final make nine choice is …
This will be the third pair of trousers I’ll be aiming to make this year.
On top of being floaty (frickin love culottes) I’m going in for comfort and doing the elasticated back and flat front hack that Helen has in her blog.
I’m going to make a pair out of black viscose but I’m thinking for another pair perhaps for something heavier as I don’t think viscose is a suitable option if I’m trying to stay warm, do you have any suggestions on this?
The culottes are said to be quite roomy and I’ve read somewhere (probably HC’s website) that I can adjust the darts as-well!
So if you haven’t already picked this up yet – I’m super excited and geared up for this year’s #MakeNine2021 – eeeek!
I feel like the last couple of years I’ve learned enough skills now to not get that overwhelmed feeling and can honestly say that I think I actually might just manage this make nine!
I hope you’ve enjoyed this blog post relating to my YouTube, please comment in the box below if you have any questions or suggestions in relation to the choice of makes I’ve made and this blog post and if you have a chance, please go and view my YouTube video!
I did a poll back over on Instagram whether or not you would like to see all my makes that I did in 2020 over here, in a blog post.
Well, the answer was a huge “yes, Please!”, so here goes.
Also if you don’t know I’ve recently started doing my YouTube channel again (yay!) and I’ve uploaded a video with some of my favourite makes from this year! So if you can, please check it out and let me know what your favourite make is (either here in the comments or in the youtube video comments).
I’ve listed the makes in no particular order.
West Cliff Dress – Friday Pattern Company Bodice XL, Skirt graded from XL at waist to 3XL at hips. Viscose Jersey from Lamazi Fabrics
Well, there we have it … over 30 me-mades this year. A lot of Testers and I’m starting to dabble a bit more in separates. I’m super chuffed at what I’ve sewn up. Some were WIPs and some spontaneous but nevertheless I love them all.
In 2021, I hope to make more Trousers, skirts and other separates. I’m going back to planning my make nine this year, which I fine tuned with plans that will hopefully help push me and expand my me made wardrobe.
Talking of which, I will be posting something on here and on YouTube regarding my make nine plans … watch this space!
It all started when I saw By Hand London’s sample of the Jessica Skirt in this Valentine Red and Pink viscose … it was love at first sight!
I thought the chances of sourcing it would be second to none but what’s the harm asking? The worst answer would be no or sorry we’ve ran out, so with that in mind I did some digging! You guess it, long story short I found some at The Rag Shop via pigeonwishes shop.
Yay! So I contacted Steph at The Rag Shop to let her know that I was doing a blog post on the viscose and she kindly gave one meter in return for the blog post (I already purchase two metres) so having that extra meter allowed me to play about with more options.
The Wildergown by Friday Pattern company has been on my sewing list for ages, I just love the fluidity of the dress. The Valentine Viscose and the wildergown dress would be a beautiful match!
I choose the xl according to the finished measurements but I could’ve gone up an extra size on the skirt but I might come back to that as I’ve still got some fabric left. Obviously, I was going to go on the full-on gown – I think it would have been be rude not too!
Ok, for adjustments I shortend the bodice because I’m only 5’3″ and my torso isn’t long at all. I went for even layers in the skirt but on hindsight, shouldve keep the top tier longer and the bottom tier shorter – but nevermind.
Sewing with the viscose was a dream. I didn’t find it too slippery to work with either. I did use a light weight needle just to be sure it didn’t punture the fabric whilst sewing it. I’ve been reading that even using a microtex needle can sometimes still lead to tiny fractures in the fabric (in some makes more than others) which is quite nerving wracking after you’ve made that investment.
Before I started putting the pieces together I overlocked all the edges to stop them fraying. Of course, I could always try french seams to finish the seams but let’s be frank here, 1. I’ve not got the patience to do that and 2. I’ve still not got the patience.
I really wanted to try and pattern match some of the lines of the grids and this worked out better than expected even with the gathering. For gathering I used lots of pins … LOTS of them and I tend to use the Prym glass headed pins now, just my preference.
I’m still sitting on the fence if I should add waist ties just to give a bit of shape and I may shorten the bottom tier to be just below the knee. I think it’s all to do with my height but I may leave the length as it is if the waist ties help. I’ve heard that Julie Uzor has a great tutorial on her Instagram for rouleau loops via theminisewist (but I’ve yet to find it).
However I’m slowly falling in love with the dress as when I first tried it on, I was like “what have I done?”. For me it’s a bold change with the grid lines, because I’m short and rather curvy I think it accentuates certain features. But everytime I’ve tried it on I’m feeling more confident.
To add to the love of this wildergown I am loving the drama of the neckline. The pull tie that gathers the neck and gives the shape is such a simple yet clever design feature.
Already into a month of lockdown and I’ve been buying fabric left right and centre from little independent fabric businesses across the UK.
It’s good that I’m buying though but seriously I have no more space. I keep trying to tell myself this, but now it has to happen!
Anyway, as you probably guessed by the title of this post is that as from May 1st, there will be no more buying fabrics for at least three months and maybe even longer.
Reasons for going on this fabricsabbatical:
1. I really not NEED any more fabric!
You’ve seen pictures of my 20 odd boxes bins and counting full of knits and wovens! Metres and metres of used but beautiful fabrics!
2. I’ve managed to do three months last year as part of slow fashion season, which started in June.
Admittedly, it was hard but I stuck at it and miraculously I survived unharmed. The original idea was to get 10’ 000 people not to buy ANY clothes for three months. I did both – pat on the back for me!
3. Another destashing will be coming to the destash grid.
Soon. Once this horrid pandemic is over. Once the Royal Mail gets back on its feet. Just now it’s slow and as I keep saying there’s no point putting more pressure on it with me adding more parcels. I’ll be putting the fabrics on the destash grid and you can have a mosey, Just don’t expect me to sell it to you right there and then. Let’s keep it simple! I’ll be just posting piccies of fabrics with zero, squad all details until the destash opens, don’t freak – I’ll be notifying on stories when it is going to live! Oh @sdie_destash is where it’s happening.
4. Another reason to stop buying fabrics is to actually see what I’ve got and record it!
That’s right, I’m going to record what I’m going to keep! It’s simple, it’s not technical either. It’s in black and white on “flat white” recycled cardstock! Kudos to Anna @annatriestosew for letting me know how she did it. Why not trello? Hmm, it’s way to meh to start with such a massive stash. And I get to keep a “touch and feel” of the fabric too!
5. I won’t have a job come mid May.
My contract ends on the 13th, which is really sad as I enjoyed working with fabulous colleagues. I have to say that these 3 months which turned out to 9 nine as they kept renewing my contract, has been the best! I don’t have any bad feeling against the company especially in the current climate for their decision not to renew my contract, just a bit of anxiety for what will happen in the coming weeks, if not, months for me and my future job. I won’t be the only one in this situation.
So I’m going to have to tighten up the purse strings and I’ve got plenty of fabric to see me through many years.
Before I finish, I’m allowed haberdashery items, such as interfacing, buttons, trims and all that jazz, just not Fabric meterage!
Although I’ve published my photos on Instagram, I thought it would be good just to have my thoughts on the pattern and fit here for my first myosotis dress.
So before I started I check my back measurements according to the pattern piece and shortened the bodice. I think it’s a tad too short in this version but hey ho I’ll still wear it. For my next version I’ll definitely used the for bodice piece and original length. I cut the largest size and instead of 1.5cm/5/8” seam allowance I went for 1cm. The bodice fits really well.
The skirt has no real issues and was fairly straight forward although I only cut one of the lower ruffle and had to do a last minute panic of “ok where’s the remaining pieces of fabric” – which was fine. I pattern match this piece because there’s an extra seam at the back of the dress now because of this rookie mistake!
I think my favourite part of the dress is the sleeves. I’m just loving the ruffles and to me that’s something that’s surprising to me!
The fabric is a Lady McElroy Cotton “Marlie” lawn. The print is digitally printed onto the fabric. The print itself is called “Shades of Autumn – Midnight”. I bought this from The Cloth Shop by Remnant Kings, Edinburgh a good year ago for a myosotis dress and who knew it would turn out so well! I’m pleased it didn’t have too much time in the stash.
I found the collar to be a bit of a nightmare though. The instructions aren’t clear to be frank and if you follow them it leads you into a fiddle. So conferring with my sewing buddies, I’m advised to go and have a look at Professor pincushion on youtube and hey presto, the dress lives!
So there you go – my first and not last Myosotis Dress by Deer & Doe patterns. Thanks for reading and see you back here soon!