Make Nine: Pona Jacket

Disclaimer: I was given this fabric in return for a review over on Minerva. This is a basic post, so please check out my blog post over on Minerva!

What is happening? After three years of not completing make nine and a year off, I am powering through this years make nines.

Could it be I’ve managed to get confidence with my sewing skills – who knows, but I like it.

So, the Pona Jacket by Helen’s Closet Patterns kinda reminds me of similar RTW jackets that I’ve had in the past and will be a to go to pattern for the future.

I really enjoyed making the Pona Jacket. Helen’s instructions are second to none one of the best instructions around. I used the lining hack on her blog post on her website to insert the lining to this jacket.

For more information … please go to Minerva!

Thanks for reading

New Make: Bakerloo Dress

Oh Bakerloo … ha ha (yes easily changed from ABBAs classic “Waterloo” Song.

As part of the new inclusive sizing (18-28), I was part of the tester team for Nina Lee’s newest pattern, the Bakerloo Blouse and Dress.

With it’s Statement collar with a frill and big voluminous sleeves, what more could you want?

You can either go for the blouse or you can add a skirt.

For the tester version I made the dress, yes … I am a sucker for a gathered skirt!

Before we get into the details. I want to say thank you to Nina who, after I reached out when the 6-20 range was released to say I was slightly disappointed to not seeing both of the size ranges being released at the same time, asked me to be a tester. So Thank You Nina!

Ok details … I’m sure you want them, yes?

Practicing my dance moves!

Right. The instructions are pretty much really detailed. Lots of illustrations and descriptions with step by step details on how to get the statement collar and fabulous frill perfect.

Size wise, I went with a 22 with the bust and then graded out at the waist to a 28 but could probably go down a size as it is quite roomy. The skirt is a size 28. My measurements are: Bust 46, Waist 46 and hips 57/58.

For my fabric, I chose a tencel twill from The Fabric Room, which I’ve had in my stash for a good while now. I think I heard about The Fabric Room’s Tencel Twill via my good friends in Sew Scottish. Minimum order is 3 metres and the colours are limited but it’s worth a look as it’s £4.50 a metre!!!

The Khaki Tencel Twill

Also, worth noting if you have a plain fabric you can really play around with the cross grain of the woven. For my size, it quoted 3.10metres but I managed to use 2.6metres out of the 3m of tencel, which is pretty good I’d say.

Maybe tencel twill wasn’t the best fabric choice as I think the collar pulls the neck down a little because once you’ve got the interfacing in the collar and added the frills, it’s quite a substantial weight. But it won’t stop me from wearing it – oh no!

Will I make this again?

Yes, but I’ll make the Blouse version with longer sleeves. I might raise the darts at the bust on any future versions. And when I do the dress I’ll shorten the bodice. I think that’s all. But yeah, I’ll make it again 😄

So I’ve added a few labels …

1) “One of a Kind” by Stitch Collective on the Frill.

2) Worth the Effort by Kylie and the Machine at the back closure.

3) “Handmade” by This is for Makers on the inside at the back

I think the most favourite thing about this make is the sleeves! It’s so simple, the elastic cuff but punches a statement as does the collar and the frills. Overall it’s a great dress, It delivers and it’s very now but I’m sure I’ll wear it to lots of occasions in the future.

Happy Sewing!

Adrianna || Make Nine

Why did it take me so long to try this pattern?

I think I overlooked it as I didn’t realise it was within my sizes, particularly my hips but I was so so wrong!

So I’m hoping there’s a few of you who would like the juicy bits of how I found this pattern, Yes?

The Adrianna Dress by Friday Pattern Company is kinda like the woven sister of The Adrienne Blouse, whom is a jersey pattern. Adrianna comes in sizes XS-4X. The top sizes are: Bust: 54”/137cm, Waist: 47”/119cm and Hips: 57”/145cm.

This is my second Make Nine 2021 that I’ve completed before the end of January, which in itself a complete and utter shock to myself and probably a few of you as previous years I’ve just fallen by the road side!

On top of the Adrianna Dress being part of the make nine challenge, I also completed it for my birthday and as part of the lovely @SisterMintaka’s #FeelingSewMuchBetter annual challenge. It was really fun to photograph and document my progress through the week on Instagram.

Ok, the instructions were flawless – really easy to follow. There was one area where it wasn’t so clear and I was scouting the web for a sewalong and could find one (or any)! that would just glide me through that part. BUT I figured it out. Yay!!

Oh, now the area I was stuck on was step 11. But once it came relevant, it was plain sailing.

Top Tip: Because I was working with a viscose crepe I overlocked all of the edges and used a microtex needle on the sewing machine to sew it together.

I love how the fabric behaves with the elastic in cased at the shoulders and the cuffs. It’s simple to do but the drama it gives is just lush! Chelsea is a genius.

There’s one thing I really shouldn’t have overlooked though. In the instructions booklet on page 5 is a but/hip adjustment guide. Now I usually just grade from my bust-waist-hip but I think I should’ve just went and did this adjustment as I wouldn’t have got this excess (see photo below).

But apart from that, I really enjoyed reading the instructions and sewing this pattern up. On top of that the Viscose Crepe was a dream to work with, yes I’m surprised as it’s Atelier Brunette and sometimes (I have heard of mixed reviews!) notoriously difficult to work with. But it sewed up like a dream!

You can bet on your cotton socks that I will be sewing more Adrianna Dresses in the future. But I’ll be adding a little more length on future Adriannas’ as I’m a little scared I’ll reveal too much if I bend over!

For This Adrianna Dress – I used Atelier Brunette Viscose Crepe “Dune Smokey”, purchased from @ohsewshop with a voucher that I won a while ago. It was a decent remnant and I was completely impressed with myself that I got all the pattern pieces cut out of 2.40cm when the pattern call for between 2.88 and 3.88!

Although I didn’t have to pattern match, I managed to wow myself … and on top of that used the crossed grain to fit all the pieces in. This was really down to the print not being directional and I think I got away with it by the skin of my teeth!!

The Pattern for Adrianna can be found here. I mean, what are you waiting for? Yes, I am a enabler but come on!!

I used #SizeMe label from Stitch Collective, if you are in the Uk and don’t want to wait ages due to the pandemic postage delays then you can buy some of stitch collectives labels at a brilliant online shop run by the lovely Amy, which is Craft and Thrift.

But I just don’t use one label … I mean come on, I am a label fanatic! The #HelloGeorgeous label, I think just finished the insides nicely … don’t you? This is a Kylie and the Machine label, which are stocked in quite a few places now (worldwide) – yes I’ve had them shipped from KATM HQ a couple of times too and it didn’t cost that much extra to be sent over. But that was pre-Brexit and pre-Covid!

Oh! That necklace was a generous gift to myself. I saw it on wolf and moon’s Instagram and was like instantly magpied – it’s such a statement piece and yet flawlessly goes with the Adrianna perfectly! I’ve got a few me mades planned and the fabric will match this beauty very nicely.

Once again, thank you for reading!

Happy sewing …

New Make: Sagebrush Top

Ever since I did my tester on Friday Pattern Company‘s Sagebrush Top, I’ve been hooked!

The brilliant Sagebrush Top – definitely a TNT pattern with me!
My Sagebrush Tester

Hooked in the sense that recently I did a batch cut and I’ve already sewn one of the up – yes already I’m churning Sagebrush Tops out!

I really love this pattern and the details of it. From the frill at the front to the gathering at the sleeves it just makes me happy.

This Sagebrush is slightly different to the others and I’ll explain why, in a moment.

You see it lies with the fabric choice. Previously I’ve went with a viscoses and a viscose-linen blend but I decided to take inspiration from the lovely Jen (@jenlegg_teescreatives) (I’ve met her in real life, as she came up to Edinburgh Frocktails, October 2019 and she is really lovely) who has already sewn the Sagebrush in the very same fabric.

The fabulous Jen in her “Ladies” Sagebrush Top

The fabric is a Lady McElroy Chantilly Single Ladies Cotton Lawn from Sister Mintaka which I bought a wee while ago after seeing Jen’s version and looks like there is some in stock. It’s a lovely quality and has sewn up a treat. I love the colours of the print, it will be so diverse! I’ve already thought of a few outfits featuring this top, including pairing it with Jeans, as shown in the photos.

And apparently I’m not the only one who was inspired by Jen, Louisa was too!

@LouisaLovesToSew in her Chantilly single Ladies Sagebrush Top.

Ok, my top was going so well until I decided to use my overlocker to finish the seams on the sleeve and front and back pieces …

I was seriously lost for words!

At that point of seeing the blade chop into the shoulder what like watching a horror movie. Urgh. I had to step away. It didn’t stop me from sharing my disaster on Instagram stories that night – but it also helped me come up with a plan to save this make.

I had two options, one seeing if I had enough fabric to cut out a new sleeve altogether but I couldn’t really justify using it as I was going to try and make a scrunchie and hair band plus other things from it. The other option was two interface the wrong side and the right side and hope that I wouldn’t need to do a patch work … my needlework is erm shockingly bad 😂

This is a close up of the repair after being interfaced. Not bad and if I don’t point it out I doubt people will notice.

So once I got that bit out the way I could move on and get it finished – yes that’s what we like – a happy ending!

On this Sagebrush I took a bit off the length off and made the hem deep And I actually really like it. So I think I’ll do the next couple this new length.

All smiles!

As you can see, using the cotton lawn gives the frill real structure and the sleeves extra va va voom! I do really like the effect that this cotton lawn has on the pattern.

I love the new length!

Well, that’s the 4th Sagebrush of many more to come … I’m excited to do more!

Fiamma wanted in on the action 😂

Again, thank you for reading and happy sewing!

Fabricsabbatical 2020

Already into a month of lockdown and I’ve been buying fabric left right and centre from little independent fabric businesses across the UK.

It’s good that I’m buying though but seriously I have no more space. I keep trying to tell myself this, but now it has to happen!

Anyway, as you probably guessed by the title of this post is that as from May 1st, there will be no more buying fabrics for at least three months and maybe even longer.

Reasons for going on this fabricsabbatical:

1. I really not NEED any more fabric!

You’ve seen pictures of my 20 odd boxes bins and counting full of knits and wovens! Metres and metres of used but beautiful fabrics!

Some of the gorgeous fabrics in my stash just itching to be used!

2. I’ve managed to do three months last year as part of slow fashion season, which started in June.

Admittedly, it was hard but I stuck at it and miraculously I survived unharmed. The original idea was to get 10’ 000 people not to buy ANY clothes for three months. I did both – pat on the back for me!

Last year’s challenge.

3. Another destashing will be coming to the destash grid.

Soon. Once this horrid pandemic is over. Once the Royal Mail gets back on its feet. Just now it’s slow and as I keep saying there’s no point putting more pressure on it with me adding more parcels. I’ll be putting the fabrics on the destash grid and you can have a mosey, Just don’t expect me to sell it to you right there and then. Let’s keep it simple! I’ll be just posting piccies of fabrics with zero, squad all details until the destash opens, don’t freak – I’ll be notifying on stories when it is going to live! Oh @sdie_destash is where it’s happening.

The Destash!

4. Another reason to stop buying fabrics is to actually see what I’ve got and record it!

That’s right, I’m going to record what I’m going to keep! It’s simple, it’s not technical either. It’s in black and white on “flat white” recycled cardstock! Kudos to Anna @annatriestosew for letting me know how she did it. Why not trello? Hmm, it’s way to meh to start with such a massive stash. And I get to keep a “touch and feel” of the fabric too!

My Stash records!

5. I won’t have a job come mid May.

My contract ends on the 13th, which is really sad as I enjoyed working with fabulous colleagues. I have to say that these 3 months which turned out to 9 nine as they kept renewing my contract, has been the best! I don’t have any bad feeling against the company especially in the current climate for their decision not to renew my contract, just a bit of anxiety for what will happen in the coming weeks, if not, months for me and my future job. I won’t be the only one in this situation.

So I’m going to have to tighten up the purse strings and I’ve got plenty of fabric to see me through many years.

Before I finish, I’m allowed haberdashery items, such as interfacing, buttons, trims and all that jazz, just not Fabric meterage!

Haberdashery items are allowed 😄

Well, here goes … fabricsabbatical 2020!

Myosotis Dress by Deer & Doe

Although I’ve published my photos on Instagram, I thought it would be good just to have my thoughts on the pattern and fit here for my first myosotis dress.

So before I started I check my back measurements according to the pattern piece and shortened the bodice. I think it’s a tad too short in this version but hey ho I’ll still wear it. For my next version I’ll definitely used the for bodice piece and original length. I cut the largest size and instead of 1.5cm/5/8” seam allowance I went for 1cm. The bodice fits really well.

The skirt has no real issues and was fairly straight forward although I only cut one of the lower ruffle and had to do a last minute panic of “ok where’s the remaining pieces of fabric” – which was fine. I pattern match this piece because there’s an extra seam at the back of the dress now because of this rookie mistake!

I think my favourite part of the dress is the sleeves. I’m just loving the ruffles and to me that’s something that’s surprising to me!

The fabric is a Lady McElroy Cotton “Marlie” lawn. The print is digitally printed onto the fabric. The print itself is called “Shades of Autumn – Midnight”. I bought this from The Cloth Shop by Remnant Kings, Edinburgh a good year ago for a myosotis dress and who knew it would turn out so well! I’m pleased it didn’t have too much time in the stash.

I found the collar to be a bit of a nightmare though. The instructions aren’t clear to be frank and if you follow them it leads you into a fiddle. So conferring with my sewing buddies, I’m advised to go and have a look at Professor pincushion on youtube and hey presto, the dress lives!

So there you go – my first and not last Myosotis Dress by Deer & Doe patterns. Thanks for reading and see you back here soon!

Making Kalle

Hey all!

It’s been an age since I wrote anything on here but now that we are in lockdown for this Convid-19 I have a bit more time to make and blog!

I’m currently making a few things, one of which is the Kalle Shirt by Closet Case.

I’m doing version A, the cropped shirt in a liberty cotton lawn. This is the first time I’ve tackled a shirt!

I’ll add more pictures and information as I go but in the meantime I’ll get going and hopefully soon I can model it!

The many faces of Moneta

So you might gather I’m quite a sucker for the “Moneta” by Colette Patterns and the fact that it’s been a few months since I’ve last wrote a blog post, would be too good an opportunity to miss to give the wee blog a bit of a boost!

So in no order here’s my “Moneta Collection”

🧵Fabric from Pin & Sew

🧵Hacked neckline and sleeves from Seamwork Alice and added a polo neck!

🧵Fabric from the Edinburgh Dress Fabric Company

🧵Hack – scoop back

🧵The Moneta that started it all!

🧵Fabric from John Lewis

🧵Fabric from Fabric Focus

🧵First scoop back hack

🧵The Scoop back with petal sleeves dress

🧵Fabric bought from Fabricate Mirfield

🧵Made it for my 39th Birthday

🧵Fabric from Sewisfaction

🧵Scoop back – ooo er.

🧵Made this for going out to dinner for our 10th Wedding Anniversary

🧵Fabric from Fabric Focus

🧵Scoop back hack

🧵Fabric from Holm Sown

🧵My Christmas Day 2018 dress

🧵Fabric from Fabric Focus

🧵Scoop back & 3/4 length sleeves (must be my favourite combo)!

Would it surprise you if there a few others that are works in progress? Once they are completed, I’ll share them on Instagram @sewdoitemma.

Ok, well hopefully it won’t be as long as last time until I write a blog, but until then … see you soon!

Seamwork’s Skipper Sweater

This Liberty fabric has been sitting in my stash for a wee while now. I knew it was going to be a sweater but was unsure which pattern I was going to go for.  I think originally it was going to be a SH7’s Toaster but changed it for the Seamwork’s Skipper purely because it was going to be in my size range for hips.

screenshot 2019-01-30 11.23.46
Seamwork’s Skipper

screenshot 2019-01-30 11.22.44
Sew House Seven’s Toaster

screenshot 2019-01-30 11.24.32
“Heketh” (Snowdrop) Liberty Sweatshirt Fabric

The fabric was bought online from @FabricsGalore a while ago and now is no longer stocked (sorry!) although you might be lucky and see if eBay has it.  I bought 1.5m of it, it was £11.00 per half a meter, so not cheap.  Although the pattern asked for 1.7 for my sizing, I managed to get all the pattern pieces out of the piece of fabric – PHEW!

The humble snowdrop – Galanthus nivalis is my birth month flower (January) and I always look out it at this time of year, so this jumper will always fill me with joy.  When I was born, the snowdrops in my Gran’s garden came up and my gran always referred to me as “Granny’s little snowdrop” even when I was thirty!

“Already now the snowdrop dares appear,
The first pale blossom of th’unripen’d year”

Anna Laetitia Barbauld, “The Snowdrop” (1835)

My Gran & Grandad lived up in the Cairngorms, so any school holiday we (Mum, my Brother and I) were up walking, orienteering, ski-ing (both cross-country and down-hill!) and get our bit of fresh mountain air, not forgetting engulfing ourselves with Gran’s fudge and gingerbread cake and listening to Grandad’s tales of Billy Gruffs and Trolls!

Right, better skip back to Skipper.

Cutting the pattern out was really straight forward. I graded it from a 20-22 bust & waist to a 24-26 hips as i didn’t want the top bit to be too big.  I left the pocket out as I thought that the busiest of the fabric pattern would be spoilt.

Constructing the pieces was a dream and this was my first sweater pattern, so was super surprised how well I coped. I found Cheryl from Stitchy Bee’s tutorial a real help doing the neckline.  It’s also a really good vlog on how different materials look different in the same sweater pattern (Cheryl used Grainline’s Linden).

So hear it is …

 

 

 

Simplicity 8262 Coat AKA “ONE OF A KIND”

It’s taken a little over a year and half for this make. It’s made up of a heck of raw emotion plus skill since my Mum started making it for me but never got the chance to finish it because cancer decided to take hold on her (f£&* cancer in every form).

The coat itself is made of Harris Tweed bought from Fabric Focus alongside the silver paisley lining.

Kevin, the owner of fabric focus has been eager for me to finish the coat but understood how emotional the make was. He always asked when I was going to finish it, very gently pushing me to do it!

Sometimes I felt like working on the coat and sometimes not. When it got close to her Birthdays, Anniversary of her passing or Mother’s Day, I just had to put the coat down and only started working on it when I felt I could. It’s a bit like counselling (not that I’ve managed to go, nor feel quite ready for) but I know I’m working with mum on this on each step.

It’s quite nice finishing it now just before this year’s “Mother’s Day”.

Mum did most of the tacking (thank *%&@!) I hate tacking, I know it does wonders but I still actually hate doing it.

Bagging the outer and the lining literally to played tricks on my mind but wanted a neat finish. Making sure that the outer and the lining were all level was time consuming but boy does it pay off!

I don’t think finishing this coat would’ve been possible with the helpful tips and excellent guidance that I received from Abi, sewing teacher to both my mum and I, so thank you Abi for helping me on this journey.

By adding little details such as the Kylie and the Machine “one of a kind” and Harris Tweed labels it really finishes it off.  Also “One of a Kind” kinda puts a nice touch on the memory of my mum.

Not to forget to mention the beautiful frogs that make that statement piece, also sourced from Fabric Focus.

So here it is, in all its glory!

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