Adrianna || Make Nine

Why did it take me so long to try this pattern?

I think I overlooked it as I didn’t realise it was within my sizes, particularly my hips but I was so so wrong!

So I’m hoping there’s a few of you who would like the juicy bits of how I found this pattern, Yes?

The Adrianna Dress by Friday Pattern Company is kinda like the woven sister of The Adrienne Blouse, whom is a jersey pattern. Adrianna comes in sizes XS-4X. The top sizes are: Bust: 54”/137cm, Waist: 47”/119cm and Hips: 57”/145cm.

This is my second Make Nine 2021 that I’ve completed before the end of January, which in itself a complete and utter shock to myself and probably a few of you as previous years I’ve just fallen by the road side!

On top of the Adrianna Dress being part of the make nine challenge, I also completed it for my birthday and as part of the lovely @SisterMintaka’s #FeelingSewMuchBetter annual challenge. It was really fun to photograph and document my progress through the week on Instagram.

Ok, the instructions were flawless – really easy to follow. There was one area where it wasn’t so clear and I was scouting the web for a sewalong and could find one (or any)! that would just glide me through that part. BUT I figured it out. Yay!!

Oh, now the area I was stuck on was step 11. But once it came relevant, it was plain sailing.

Top Tip: Because I was working with a viscose crepe I overlocked all of the edges and used a microtex needle on the sewing machine to sew it together.

I love how the fabric behaves with the elastic in cased at the shoulders and the cuffs. It’s simple to do but the drama it gives is just lush! Chelsea is a genius.

There’s one thing I really shouldn’t have overlooked though. In the instructions booklet on page 5 is a but/hip adjustment guide. Now I usually just grade from my bust-waist-hip but I think I should’ve just went and did this adjustment as I wouldn’t have got this excess (see photo below).

But apart from that, I really enjoyed reading the instructions and sewing this pattern up. On top of that the Viscose Crepe was a dream to work with, yes I’m surprised as it’s Atelier Brunette and sometimes (I have heard of mixed reviews!) notoriously difficult to work with. But it sewed up like a dream!

You can bet on your cotton socks that I will be sewing more Adrianna Dresses in the future. But I’ll be adding a little more length on future Adriannas’ as I’m a little scared I’ll reveal too much if I bend over!

For This Adrianna Dress – I used Atelier Brunette Viscose Crepe “Dune Smokey”, purchased from @ohsewshop with a voucher that I won a while ago. It was a decent remnant and I was completely impressed with myself that I got all the pattern pieces cut out of 2.40cm when the pattern call for between 2.88 and 3.88!

Although I didn’t have to pattern match, I managed to wow myself … and on top of that used the crossed grain to fit all the pieces in. This was really down to the print not being directional and I think I got away with it by the skin of my teeth!!

The Pattern for Adrianna can be found here. I mean, what are you waiting for? Yes, I am a enabler but come on!!

I used #SizeMe label from Stitch Collective, if you are in the Uk and don’t want to wait ages due to the pandemic postage delays then you can buy some of stitch collectives labels at a brilliant online shop run by the lovely Amy, which is Craft and Thrift.

But I just don’t use one label … I mean come on, I am a label fanatic! The #HelloGeorgeous label, I think just finished the insides nicely … don’t you? This is a Kylie and the Machine label, which are stocked in quite a few places now (worldwide) – yes I’ve had them shipped from KATM HQ a couple of times too and it didn’t cost that much extra to be sent over. But that was pre-Brexit and pre-Covid!

Oh! That necklace was a generous gift to myself. I saw it on wolf and moon’s Instagram and was like instantly magpied – it’s such a statement piece and yet flawlessly goes with the Adrianna perfectly! I’ve got a few me mades planned and the fabric will match this beauty very nicely.

Once again, thank you for reading!

Happy sewing …

Cielo – Make Nine 2021

Well this is a first! I’ve made one of my first Make Nine projects and that is the Closet Core Cielo Top within a week of publishing my #makenine2021 plans!

I went with option B and used fabric that I bought from Sister Mintaka.

The fabric is Viscose Twill and is a wonderful medium-light weight and features illustrations of famous mid century architecture. It’s now (no surprise!) Sold out. It does come in a white version aswell but I think it’s all gone unfortunately!

Both absolutely stunning 🤩

It’s lovely to work with and it really suits the Cielo Top.

The Cielo top is part of the Rome Collection from Closet Core Patterns. The Pietra Trousers and the Fiore Skirt also are part of this collection.

Closet Core patterns now have a bigger size and it comes in two size brackets, 0-20 and 14-30. It’s more inclusive size wise.

The Cielo is the second pattern I’ve tried from the new size range and again I’m really happy with the results. I recently did Elodie Wrap Dress which was the first. I’m hoping to try the new Kalle Shirt which was re-released in 14-30 size, earlier in 2020.

The Elodie Wrap Dress in Viscose from Minerva as part of a Blog post.

Closet Core patterns have great instructions and it was quite easy to follow them.

I love the fit on this top. I graded from a 22 bust to a 28 hip. I used the size 22 sleeve. This top really suits this twill.

I’m already thinking of trying version A and C once I’ve got a few other make nine projects under my belt.

So yes, I’m super happy with the result and looking forward to matching some of my fabrics from the stash with future Cielos!

Thank you for reading, happy sewing and Stay Safe xx

My Make Nine 2021

Well here we are and I’m off to a flying start as I’ve almost finished one off my make nine grid!

This going alongside a YouTube video where you can see me chatting about my make nine 2021 plans. It’s kinda like the show notes from The Love Sewing podcast if you’ve ever read them – I find them really interesting!

Link to my YouTube Video!

Ok … so here’s my #MakeNine2021 / the image below is linked to my Instagram Post! The individual graphics are linked to the pdf patterns corresponding to to pattern house shop just in case you would like to buy it. (I get squad all for this but they are lovely independent pattern brands that I love)!

I’m taking part in the Sheffield Sewcial “Jeans January” over on Instagram. I’m hoping to cut them out ASAP and hoping that they fit well. I go for this style in jeans in Rtw/ Shop bought.

I’ve got some stretch denim but haven’t yet made up my mind which one to choose, that’s the trouble with hoarding fabrics 😂

View B is the option I’m going to choose.

I’m not sure on the finished garment measurements though …

The waist gains from the body measurements whereas the hip loses – is that right?

I’ll be grading waist size 28 and hip size 30.

Ok next up is …

I’ve got at least three fabrics set aside for this and I can’t tell you how often I’ve hesitated about Zadie.

I’m absolutely going to toile it. One reason being it’s generously sized or so I’ve heard. So I think I should just be cautious and do a mock up before I cut into precious fabrics.

However, I will probably going to have to grade between a 20/22 bodice and 26/28 trousers, which is the usual for me.

I think I’ll go for option B first and then try A.
Every time I look at this photo I get butterflies 🦋! Perhaps I should just get some yellow linen?!

Back to Megan Neilson and this time we have The Darling Ranges Dress.

Definitely one of these styles I’d go for in a flash!

Without a doubt I was really in love with this style/pattern before it had the upgrade to the curve range but I patiently waited and now it’s here I have no excuses not to make it.

Although I have heard some grumblings about the bodice fit … I’ll need to look into this as I’m not sure what the details are regarding the grumbling! Have you tried the new Darling Ranges dress, did you have fit issues?

I’ve not yet decided on what fabric for this project, but no doubt I’ll let you know when I do find something from my stash that I’ll go – “that’s the one”!

Next up is the beautiful Pona Jacket from Helen’s Closet.

Now … I must I have AT LEAST 5 fabrics now set aside for this project. I think I just love this jacket because it’s so versatile. I’m really drawn to the short version but I think I’ll do at least a couple of longer versions in the future. I’ll probably do a batch cut & sew just to get them sewn up so I can wear them!

No buttons/ buttonholes – woop 🙌🏻!

I might have to grade from a 22 to 28 but I’ll assess that when I come to looking at the pattern pieces and measurements.

Like the others, I’m freaking looking forward to making this one!

To start I’ll be trying up a wool from Minerva as part of the blogger network. It’s black so it’ll probably go with a lot of other things in my wardrobe, both me-made and RTW.

Another jacket which I’ve been eyeing up is the Sapporo from PaperCut Patterns.

It’s funny how a lot of people raved about it and “had no problems” making this jacket up and it took one person to really point out the flaws that so many didn’t to get a update on the pattern pieces and a bigger size range.

Like the Pona Jacket and you shouldn’t be surprised – I have been collecting a few fabrics for the Sapporo.

I think I’ll be doing videos on my makes as we go this year, plus I’ll pop into posts on here with photos of the fabrics. That way, you can see the movement and colour – how’s that?

Again I’ll be indecisive about what fabric will be a long version and what fabric will be a cropped version. Oh dear!
I’ll be maybe adding an inch on each seam at the hip, just to be sure as my hip measurements are 58 inches. But it should be doable!
Ahhh butterflies 🦋

Now the Cielo Top from Closet Core Patterns.

I’m baffled this is my only top in my make nine but it won’t be the only one I make this year. I’ve already batch cut a little pile of Friday Pattern Company’s Sagebrush Top, my tnt pattern of the moment!

To my amazement I’m almost finished the first cielo top and I’ll probably be starting a second very soon.

Bliss. Simple but statement piece!

For my first version I choose to go all out and went for option B / see the big gathered sleeves always draw me, I like a little drama in my clothes.

I think the second version I’ll let the fabric do the talking and just go for version A as pictured. Yes, I’ve got rifle paper co fabric set aside … and it’s so dreamy! But I’ll not spoil the surprise 😉

The sizing is good. Like the Elodie I’m really happy with the fit. I think this is going to one top pattern that I’ll come back to again and again!

Ok – I don’t think it would be right if I didn’t squeeze in a Friday Pattern Company pattern into this make nine, so I’ve chosen the Adrianna Dress.

Unlike its sister (Adrienne Blouse), the Adrianna is designed for Wovens in mind. I’ve completely overlooked this pattern as I didn’t realise that it went up to 4X until recently!

Ooooh the DRAMA!!!
I’m having yet more butterflies!

Sooooo … I’ve decided on some fabric for the Adrianna BUT I’ll need to lay it out with the pattern pieces in the next coming week or two as I’m hoping to cut this out and have this as a birthday dress. My birthday is the 17th of January… just in case you need to know 😂

The fabric is an Atelier Brunette Viscose which I’m hoping I’ve got enough to squeeze this dress out off. I might have to lessen the bulk and length in the sleeves to do this.

Ending on two trousers and first up is the Flint Trousers by Megan Neilson Patterns.

I’ve heard so many good things about the Flints, so again I’m eager to go through my Stash and see what would be a good choice to start off with for this pattern.

I’m also liking this pattern because it could be a good staple for work – when I finally get another one. TBH, At the moment the job searching isn’t strong but I think come mid January I’ll have a wee look!

Anyway back to the flints. I like the detail and the fact they now come in the curve range is 🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻

I’m not sure what closure to go for first though, I like them both!

And the final make nine choice is …

This will be the third pair of trousers I’ll be aiming to make this year.

On top of being floaty (frickin love culottes) I’m going in for comfort and doing the elasticated back and flat front hack that Helen has in her blog.

Floaty Dreamyness!

I’m going to make a pair out of black viscose but I’m thinking for another pair perhaps for something heavier as I don’t think viscose is a suitable option if I’m trying to stay warm, do you have any suggestions on this?

The culottes are said to be quite roomy and I’ve read somewhere (probably HC’s website) that I can adjust the darts as-well!

So if you haven’t already picked this up yet – I’m super excited and geared up for this year’s #MakeNine2021 – eeeek!

I feel like the last couple of years I’ve learned enough skills now to not get that overwhelmed feeling and can honestly say that I think I actually might just manage this make nine!

I hope you’ve enjoyed this blog post relating to my YouTube, please comment in the box below if you have any questions or suggestions in relation to the choice of makes I’ve made and this blog post and if you have a chance, please go and view my YouTube video!

Many thanks and happy sewing!

Valentine Wildergown (a collaboration with The Rag Shop).

It all started when I saw By Hand London’s  sample of the Jessica Skirt in this Valentine Red and Pink viscose … it was love at first sight!

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I thought the chances of sourcing it would be second to none but what’s the harm asking? The worst answer would be no or sorry we’ve ran out, so with that in mind I did some digging! You guess it, long story short I found some at The Rag Shop via pigeonwishes shop.

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Yay! So I contacted Steph at The Rag Shop to let her know that I was doing a blog post on the viscose and she kindly gave one meter in return for the blog post (I already purchase two metres) so having that extra meter allowed me to play about with more options.

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The Wildergown by Friday Pattern company has been on my sewing list for ages, I just love the fluidity of the dress. The Valentine Viscose and the wildergown dress would be a beautiful match!

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I choose the xl according to the finished measurements but I could’ve gone up an extra size on the skirt but I might come back to that as I’ve still got some fabric left. Obviously, I was going to go on the full-on gown – I think it would have been be rude not too!

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Ok, for adjustments I shortend the bodice because I’m only 5’3″ and my torso isn’t long at all. I went for even layers in the skirt but on hindsight, shouldve keep the top tier longer and the bottom tier shorter – but nevermind.

Sewing with the viscose was a dream.  I didn’t find it too slippery to work with either.  I did use a light weight needle just to be sure it didn’t punture the fabric whilst sewing it.  I’ve been reading that even using a microtex needle can sometimes still lead to tiny fractures in the fabric (in some makes more than others) which is quite nerving wracking after you’ve made that investment.

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Before I started putting the pieces together I overlocked all the edges to stop them fraying.  Of course, I could always try french seams to finish the seams but let’s be frank here, 1. I’ve not got the patience to do that and 2. I’ve still not got the patience.

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I really wanted to try and pattern match some of the lines of the grids and this worked out better than expected even with the gathering. For gathering I used lots of pins … LOTS of them and I tend to use the Prym glass headed pins now, just my preference.

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I’m still sitting on the fence if I should add waist ties just to give a bit of shape and I may shorten the bottom tier to be just below the knee.  I think it’s all to do with my height but I may leave the length as it is if the waist ties help.  I’ve heard that Julie Uzor has a great tutorial on her Instagram for rouleau loops via theminisewist (but I’ve yet to find it).

However I’m slowly falling in love with the dress as when I first tried it on, I was like “what have I done?”.   For me it’s a bold change with the grid lines, because I’m short and rather curvy I think it accentuates certain features.  But everytime I’ve tried it on I’m feeling more confident.

To add to the love of this wildergown I am loving the drama of the neckline.  The pull tie that gathers the neck and gives the shape is such a simple yet clever design feature.

For the finishing touches I added one of Paige Joanna’s “Cute as a Daisy’ labels which I bought last week and thought it was quite a cute match!

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Anyway, I hope you’ve enjoyed reading this and Happy Sewing!

Emma x

 

 

 

Myosotis Dress by Deer & Doe

Although I’ve published my photos on Instagram, I thought it would be good just to have my thoughts on the pattern and fit here for my first myosotis dress.

So before I started I check my back measurements according to the pattern piece and shortened the bodice. I think it’s a tad too short in this version but hey ho I’ll still wear it. For my next version I’ll definitely used the for bodice piece and original length. I cut the largest size and instead of 1.5cm/5/8” seam allowance I went for 1cm. The bodice fits really well.

The skirt has no real issues and was fairly straight forward although I only cut one of the lower ruffle and had to do a last minute panic of “ok where’s the remaining pieces of fabric” – which was fine. I pattern match this piece because there’s an extra seam at the back of the dress now because of this rookie mistake!

I think my favourite part of the dress is the sleeves. I’m just loving the ruffles and to me that’s something that’s surprising to me!

The fabric is a Lady McElroy Cotton “Marlie” lawn. The print is digitally printed onto the fabric. The print itself is called “Shades of Autumn – Midnight”. I bought this from The Cloth Shop by Remnant Kings, Edinburgh a good year ago for a myosotis dress and who knew it would turn out so well! I’m pleased it didn’t have too much time in the stash.

I found the collar to be a bit of a nightmare though. The instructions aren’t clear to be frank and if you follow them it leads you into a fiddle. So conferring with my sewing buddies, I’m advised to go and have a look at Professor pincushion on youtube and hey presto, the dress lives!

So there you go – my first and not last Myosotis Dress by Deer & Doe patterns. Thanks for reading and see you back here soon!

The Moneta Obsession

Currently I’m sewing up a line of Colette’s Moneta Dress … you could say I’m obsessed (the title gives that one away!).

It all started with seeing the Moneta Party on IG way back when I first got the itch to stitch. It’s only take me a couple of years to summon up the courage to thread up the overlocker and have a go of this Jersey malarkey.

Here’s a Summery of my dresses so far!

Moneta 1

Fabric: John Lewis – dark green and black

Sleeves – short length

First trip out was at Tantallon Castle!

Moneta 2

Fabric: Fabric Focus, Mustard and grey knots

Sleeves – 3/4 length

Shortened bodice length and slightly shorter skirt

Made it up for #OWOP18

My mustard snag tights match up perfectly with this version!

Moneta 3

Fabric: Fabric Focus

Hack – scoop back

Sleeves: 3/4 length

Wore to a friends exhibit opening night!

Moneta 4

Fabric: Fabric Focus, Sage green with floral design.

Hack – scoop back

Have to re do front bodice due to overlocker punching a hole in it 🤬

Sleeves– 3/4 sleeves

Date night with the bestie for this one!

Well that’s four so far and there’s at least another four to be sewn including a Christmas one, so watch this space and IG for more to come with other hacks (I love the scoop back hack!).

Also I am going to put a couple of other stretch/Jersey pieces in between now and the rest of the Moneta’s so you don’t think I’m a one-trick Moneta! I’ll be talking about my next few projects in my make nine 2019 post soon!

Oooopsa lacy!

Since the 5th May I’ve been on a fabric ban but this Friday past I broke it and I broke it hard!

You see when you see something RTW and the stock is low in your size but you have the sewing skills (this does not include boning or lace!!) you go what the heck and go all in, pretty much head first.

So this is the RTW dress I’ve fallen IN LOVE with and just wanna swosh about in.

The RTW dress is a beautiful Monsoon one but as said a second ago, the size I was looking for had gone out of stock. I would definitely pay £139 for it but that’s if they had it. But I’m not going to buy that dress, I’m going to make it eeek!

Fabric:

After ordering several different swatches and doing a ridiculous amount of searches for “mint guipure lace” online I wasn’t anywhere forward. Locally I was starting to loose my confidence in getting what I really wanted. It was on the final straw that I took the tip from a previous co-worker to visit Fabric Focus. It should’ve been first choice – doh!Above the linings, there lay the beautiful lace guipure in exactly the colours and shade I was looking for and too even make my July better the lining was there to make it pop! It’s a-lot more minty than the photo suggests. The lining is a skin tone. But I may have to double it up with a cotton because of the boning!

The Pattern:The pattern was a lot easier to find and in the end the McCalls 7720 was a very close fit.

I’ll get the boning, hook & eye, threads and zip organised at a later date. I might make a toile and see how that goes before I start back at my evening classes in August if I get other projects finished! I can’t thank Kevin at Fabric Focus and his lovely Mum (who actually served me) enough for stocking this lace. You made a very happy lady. This is just a perfect example why we should support local shops like this!

Disclaimer: all opinions are my own!

Sewing: McCalls 7381

So with little over a week I decided to start the dress that I planned to not only have finished but moved on to the the project.

As you know life doesn’t always allow you plans to go swimmingly well and time can just drown with you realising how little you have left!

I bought the Lady McElroy Cotton lawn “Brushstrokes” from StitchyBee a while back.

When I saw the McCalls 7381 pattern that I received free with Love Sewing Magazine a while back, I knew it would be a simple quick make providing I followed the instructions correctly.

Building the whole thing went brilliantly well until it came to me wearing it. It was huge, it was a tent on me. Where did I go wrong?

I had one resort, take it to class! So I did! Thankfully Abi saved the day but it meant me taking in at the waist (a lot!!). But I did it, It only took a few hours and a few swear words.

So where did I go wrong? I only went by the measurements on the back of the pattern envelope and not the ones on the tissue. I can definitely go down one size on the bodice (woop woop) next time. Also for next time I’m considering sleeves and the next version in viscose. So no I’m not put off – yeah! It’s so comfortable to wear as well, especially when it comes to eating a lovely German buffet and cheesecake because of the ease and the elastic!

A big thumbs up to M7381!

Sew Shop Local: The Sewing Studio, Dunfermline And The Fife Sewists Meet Up!

A week on after the #SewScottish Afternoon Tea another group of lovely ladies held a smaller but equally nice meet up in Dunfermline.

We all met at the Heaven Scent Cafe, which is set in the new building beside the abbey. The cafe has a lovely selection of cakes and hot drinks on offer but as the weather was so warm I opted for a cool fizzy elderflower juice.

We sat round a couple of tables for about an hour exchanging information about patterns, materials, fabric shops, discount codes and a little bit about our wonderful selves. It was a lovely chilled out affair and “suited me down to a t” as I had been up at 3:30am that morning for a 4:45am start at work!

After some much needed refreshments we headed up to the newly opened Sewing Studio. The Sewing Studio is a fantastic extension of Sew Yarn Crafty after locals were giving feedback back to owner, that there was a massive dressmaking following and they wanted more fabric choice and classes. It all came together pretty simply as there was a property available to extend into and that’s how it all happened.

It’s been a little over a year since I’ve been up to Dunfermline and checked out Sew Yarn Crafty. The last time I’d took a trip up was with my mum and my aunt. Mum was not that great at that point but wanted to get out the house and always supported me in my hobbies. That woman was always pushing herself, where she got the strength from was unbelievable.

Anyway before I go to a dark place … (everything connects!!)

Aileen, the owner of Sew Yarn Crafty and The Sewing Studio and myself!

The sewing Studio has a great range of fabrics and independent patterns (TATB’s, papercut, cashmerette, Sew over it and a couple of others.

I actually saw quite a few fabrics that I really wanted but I had to refrain as I’m only a week in from making that (damn) pact with @Sew_Sleep_Deprived so I wouldn’t buy anymore fabric – urghhhh!

I was stroking them and crying 😭. It was tough. I did refrain from fabrics but I bought two cashmerette patterns and a book about drafting dress and skirts.

The weather was on it’s truly best behaviour as it was gorgeous. I really need to come up and check out the Abbey.

So all in all, it was a lovely afternoon out and I’m looking forward to catching up with the girls again. Hopefully I’ll have made a few me makes by then and I can show them off!

Sewing Plans: My #MakeNine2018 Choices

DRUMROLL PLEASE …

So, it’s taken me until now to get my shit together.  Yeah I know I’m already slipping!

However, rather than ramble on anymore to delay it even further here are my choices for #MakeNine2018 …

1.  Cleo – Tilly and the Buttons (TATB)

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Cleo by TATB

2.  McCalls Top 7360

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McCalls 7360

3.  Seamwork’s Mesa

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Seamwork’s Mesa Dress

4. Penny Dress By Colette

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The Penny Dress by Colette

5. Toaster – Sew House 7

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The Toaster by Sew House Seven

6. McCalls 7536 Dress

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McCall’s 7536

7.  Colette’s Moneta

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Colette’s Moneta

8.  The Washi Dress – Made by Rae

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The Washi Dress – Made by Rae

9. The Scout Tee by Grainline Studio

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Grainline Studio’s Scout Tee

I’ll be able to match them up with Fabric without purchasing anything new.  Most of the patterns I’ve also got.  You may know That I’ve already sewn a Cleo and the McCalls 7536 but definitely attempting another of both!

Once I’ve dug out my fabric choices, I’ll do another post.

Here’s a sneak peak of my 2018 Sewing BuJo too, which I’ll leave you with!

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My #MakeNine2018 in my #SewingBuJo

 

Thanks for visiting!

Emma